Vittorio Zecchin/Veronese — Carlo Nason/Lotus — Galliano Ferro

The Lagoon of Venice — A private Tour

Discover your unique and fascinating visit to Venice and its islands

The following excursion to the islands that many of us would like to visit but never had time or opportunity to fully enjoy is not the historical or even eponymous recount of fabulous sites or people associated with the lagoon but a brief summary based on places I have visited and emotions I have experienced. You will find plenty of opportunities for further reading and details to enhance your preparation for the trip. Personally, I prefer the old-style guide books with a slow narrative which enable you to absorb the detailed description — please find a few links attached.

Travelling to Venice requires dedicating time. Short weekend trips may turn out to be less rewarding. If you travel with youngsters beware not to choose the main streets, where they can easily get lost in the crowd. They may prefer to wander the labyrinth of the tiny calle. It is also very tiering to walk with the caravans of tourists. When travelling to historic places like Venice and its islands you can be sure to uncover the beauty of lasting impressions that they offer. First of all you will find yourself surrounded by canals. They crisscross the river delta into which Venice was built. Water has been and still is not only a principal means of transport, it reflects light during the day, divides and defines a perspective upon urban life, arts and architecture that one wishes to access when meandering the narrow streets. Overwhelmed by important buildings and monuments you can better recognize the rich expression of architecture that transform the vision of this eccentric ‘Citta di Venezia’ from a boat. Water — and not only for fun “Acqua Alta” is an experience that Venetians are accustomed to. They get the warning and know how to react to preserve their appartements and furniture or shops — normally… This year was certainly exceptional, not only for visitors or tourists.

Friends and family have accompanied us to visit Venice regularly since the late 70s. “Pensione Accademia” — a central location with a beautiful garden — was our beloved hotel until Franco Marzollo and his wife Giovanna could not renew their lease with the heirs of the former owners. Only later did we get acquainted to the wonderful, seemingly remote Murano through our local friends. We have chosen Murano as our preferred residence for many reasons, as some of you may discover during your visit.

The prime example is Villa Lina, a superior B&B. We recommend you book your room and enjoy the atmosphere. The villa is located at the doorstep of the glassmaking factory NasonMoretti — www.nasonmoretti.it — and has direct access for taxi boats. The advantages you recognize immediately are the peaceful environment, the garden and the terrace with lots of flowers and breathing space. The owners Evi and Carlo Nason have encouraged their daughter Gaia to enrich the place with her ideas about hospitality and activities appropriate for such an enticing location. It has recently expanded its range of services to include hosting receptions and various festivities or seminars, even cooking courses.

You can book directly +39 041 739036, www.villalinavenezia.com

Murano

Evi Nason (“Villa Lina”) is a dear friend and has turned their beautiful 16th century home into this B&B. The origins of the villa are unknown. It may have been the summer residence of a rich Venetian family or a gambling place — a welcome pastime of the period.

The highlight of Murano is of course glass and glass manufacturing: Evi can provide you with great advice on what to see and where to go to buy… Her husband Carlo has been frequently honoured for his outstanding glass designs. He of course unites the rare technical knowledge of the industrial designer and the creativity of the artist. His lamps dating mostly from the 1970s and onwards are not only very well designed but fit all modern style houses. Since they have become difficult to find some will be re-edited by the heirs of the glass factory Mazzega 1946 which is now situated in Casale sul Sile nearby on the mainland. In his early 80s, Carlo has a long record and likes to chat about the art of glass and design.

Murano is not just little Venice with its Canale Grande and its palazzi but a place in its own right. For centuries it used to be a summer resort for Venetian nobility like other islands and remains a paradise for today’s tourists and is easy to reach — some five minutes by vaporetto from the northern part of Venice, the Fondamente Nove, or from the airport either with public transport or about twenty minutes by taxi boat at the cost of EUR 80. Villa Lina has direct access to the canal in front of the residence (Canale Serenella). Enjoy the glass museum (www.museovetro.visitmuve.it/en/home/), the Byzantine basilica — Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato, two important churches and their treasures, lots of shops, galleries and places to eat and drink. Some furnaces offer free entry for glass blowing demonstrations. As always with plenty on offer it can be difficult to choose to be satisfied.

Restaurants in Murano — Always remeber to book a table

Canale Grande

• “Ai Frati” +39 041 736694 coming from San Pietro Martire crossing the canal is the metal bridge “Ponte Longo”, as it is called. Only last year was its name changed from “Ponte Vivarini” to “Lino Toffolo”, in honour of the Murano born actor, satirist and author who passed in 2016, aged 82. About 50m to the left on Fondamenta Venier you find the traditional rastaurant Ai Frati (Gigi / service and Giovanni / chef), fantastic fish. And a terrace on the Canale Grande di Murano facing the “Palazzo da Mula”.
• “Trattoria ai Piantaleone” +39 041 736794 on Riva Longa, great variety of dishes and a terrace on the Canale Grande.

In Rio

• “Busa alla Torre” +39 041 739662 — A dear friend of Evi, Lele il Rosso (both were actors in plays by the late Lino Toffolo and performed plays by famous traditional Italian authors such as Goldoni) runs a well frequented restaurant on one of the main squares, the Campo Santo Stefano just opposite the “Chiesa San Pietro Martire”. Very cultured, he loves history, speaks languages and enjoys entertaining. The kitchen provides a broad variety of traditional specialities (Let Evi book a table).
• Continuing your way on the same Riva you find the bar “Tanduo”. Drinks and finger food or cichetti are served. A little further out on your way towards the lagoon enjoy your meal at:
• “Acqua Stanca” +39 041 3195125, check opening hours, (Giovanna / service and Catarina / chef), warm and charming ambience, creative and light cuisine. Catarina Nason turned chef from her profession as an architect. She prepares the most refined traditional dishes or surprises with regional flavours especially from the south of Italy. Don’t miss her desserts and try their good selection of wines.
• “Versus Meridianem” + 39 041 5275408, new and very prominently located in a former glassmaking factory with a stupendous view to the lagoon. Open daily and in the evening, easy meals with pizza, fish or meat.

Shopping in Murano

• On Fondamenta Manin Cristina, the wife of Lele, the owner of Busa alla Torre, operates a tiny jewellery shop some 50m from Campo Santo Stefano under the arcades of a gothic Venetian house (she holds old glass pearls designed by the Austrian architect Josef Hoffmann, please ask).
• Continue your way along Fondamenta Manin and you will find the salesrooms of the famous glass factories Salviati — stunning new models and traditional design (www.salviati.com) and the one of NasonMoretti, run by Michela e Marta — traditional or modern style drinking glasses, vases and much more (www.elleellemurano.com). Both are located next to the restaurant Acqua Stanca.
• The Ponte de Mezzo will take you to the opposite side of the canal to Fondamenta dei Vetrai and the store of Carlo Moretti presenting a great selection of their production (www.carlomoretti.com).
• Further up close to the church San Pietro Martire the perfume shop The Merchant of Venice displays its outstanding selection. The fragrances are bottled in exquisitely designed glass. Scented candles can be purchased with their special Murano glass holders — enjoy all the exciting variety. Interestingly, the Palazzo Mocenigo at San Stae in Venice houses the Perfume Museum and the Museum of the History of Textile and Costumes (www.themerchantofvenice.net).

Video: Handcrafted venetian glass mirrors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6UDCnaGobk

• Whether you are looking for old chandeliers or mirrors, vases or objects, reproductions thereof or new designs: there are famous vendors or art producers to visit. Take time to browse their websites before visiting their shops or factories. Immerse yourself in this wonderland of light, shapes and all kind of small or large pieces, all is art. Beyond renowned glass makers like Venini or Barovier you will discover the different styles of exquisite master pieces at Fratelli Barbini (mirrors, www.specchiveneziani.it), Simone Cenedese (Chandeliers, vases: www.simonecenedese.it), Pietro e Riccardo Ferro (Vasi tagliati, www.pietroericcardoferro.com), Fornace Ferro (Yalos, www.fornaceferromurano.it), Seguso (Chandeliers, www.seguso.com/glass-summary), Sent (Necklaces, www.marinaesusannasent.com) and several more.
• Another name closely tied to traditional glass making is Ercole Moretti. He produces the famous Murrine used in the composition of any kind of glass mosaic as part of an object or jewellery and pearls (www.ercolemoretti.it).
• The “canne di vetro”, the glass rod and basic material to produce the Murrine, is manufactured by Effetre (www.effetremurano.com). Get additional information (Ask Evi for an introduction).
• Decorative art has kept its place and cooperates with the major glass factories. Decorating glass by hand is a very traditional way of rendering an object unique, recognizable or defining the era of its origin. Working in their tiny studio daughter Anna and the two sons Giorgio and Giovanni of Nino Spezzamonte have decided to continue their father’s enterprise. Visit them to discover how design, colour and gold are applied (Albertini & Spezzamonte Snc +39 041 739930).
• Engraving glass is another technique used to embellish and form objects of glass. Matteo Seguso is famously representing this art. He has been trained by his father Bruno. To find out more you can can follow him demonstrating in videos on YouTube (www.matteoseguso.it).
• Engraving glass and decoration has been the tradition at S.A.L.I.R — Mario d’ Alpaos and his business partner spent all the years running the “laboratorio” with their expertise as craftmen after they took over from the father of Mario who together with some friends founded the operation in 1923. They realized designs by Guido Maria Balsamo Stella (1882–1941), Vittorio Zecchin (1878–1947), Franz Pelzel (1900–1974) or Zancanaro (1906–1985). All the remaining beautiful objects of art are still on sale in their premises on Fondamenta Manin 78 (+39 041 739033) although they are retired now and had to discontinue production having not found any successors.
• Outstanding quality has its price. You may therefore not be surprised when talking to the experts about the complexity of the production involving the preparation of the basic material, the knowhow surrounding the production process and the mastery of translating a projected design into a piece of art, an object or an installation. All this needs and involves the study of traded secrets of the “Maestri” — the enduring spirited and skilled craftsmen — the capital investment to support the industry and enable research and of course the consumer who appreciates the difference…

Traditional glasswork al forno

I Maestri

• The Maestri of glass blowing would merit a chapter of their own. First and foremost we are talking art that is translated by numerous expressions with special materials, here it is a stabilized liquid called glass. Listening to maestri like Livio Seguso the study of history and the acquisition of experience through work are shaping the approach and the quality of the result. His observation though is that the truthful master will have to reach to the bottom of his heart to be able to convince.
• A lot of publicity is dedicated to designers. The success of a new piece of art or object is associated with their creative impulse. In reality we tend to forget that execution is key and often needs a fair amount of remodeling of the designer’s project by the maestri. Form and material require technical knowledge. The Maestri that stand out for their skills will hopefully not be lost to the past. When speaking to the renowned and long time serving CEO of Venini, now retired Renzo Rioda, one is impressed by the achievements Murano has been made famous for. His remarks echo the concerns of many cognoscenti and touch to the very problem contemporary artisanry faces. Not only is the population of the island shrinking and the choice for other professions prevalent, but ever more young people do not develop the passion and the skills of their ancestors necessary to perform and outpace competition that is forming globally. New talents have almost disappeared. “I vecchi maestri accarezzavano il vetro”, referring to the treatment of glass while being formed by the master. This reflects the developments and the perception that lost talent is extremely difficult to sow and recuperate. In the appendix you will find his most favoured names.
• Allow me a side note on this very delicate subject. The inclusion of important glass making families into the Libro d’Oro of the Serenissima made them part of the Venetian nobility. They were given certain privileges, for example marriages into the Venetian aristocracy but they were not allowed to leave the Republic. The secrets associated with glass blowing were passed on within families. In general, apprentices were restricted to watch the process and only very rarely got a hands-on practice with a maestro. Glassmakers in Murano were confined to keep the monopoly of their art. The tradition of glass blowing in Murano was strictly conferred upon male. One has to admit though that over time the export of their precious knowledge to other countries was inevitable. Although confronting severe criticism some left Venice to teach outside their home town and bring the knowledge and passion to fruition in other places like the United States of America. But this is definitely another story.
• Documentation is vast and covers historical, social, economic and artistic facts as well as comments that you can access via the web. Enjoy to look for the geniuses and master pieces by some of the most prominent names:
• Alfredo Barbini (1912–2007), Giovanni Ferro (1911–1998), Emilio Nason (1891–1959), his son Aldo Nason (1920-), Archimede Seguso (1909–1999), Livio Seguso (1930-), Pino Signoretto (1944–2017), Lino Tagliapietra (1934-), Ermanno Nason (1928-), Paolo Venini (1895–1959), Licio Zanetti, Loredano Rosin (1936–1992) and his brother Dino. All started very early in their lives to work with glass, mastermind, form and instruct. Each of them represents a different style — and develops the objects according to his own perception or Zeitgeist. In an interview published on YouTube in 2011 Guido Ferro, former Presidente della Confindustria Venezia, points to the fact that diversity generates competition and engenders excellence. What is missing now is the pool of young people to join the effort.
• We should also not forget that alongside the evolution of practice research plays a major role in the reputation that Murano has achieved over many centuries from its beginnings to our days. One of the most distinguished living personalities in this field is of course Cesare Barbini. He spent his career studying, experimenting and researching the distinctive “secrets” of the art of Murano glass.
• The ones that have reached out to teach in other places have raised a new generation of talent. In the United States of America places like Seattle, famous Universities and Museums welcome the new experience and have further developed the capabilities of their artists. Embracing the art of their respected Venetian masters one can find names like Dale Chihuly (1941-) or Nancy Callan. Of course opinion about the revelation of the cultivated sectrets outside the island is divided as you speak to first line experienced enterpreneurs or artists.
• The names of maestri associated with the great technical and artistic achievement in Murano — the “lavorazione al forno” — are unique. But let me add a few names of the more recent generation like Davide Fuin (trained by Carlo Tosi), Simone Cenedese (trained in the family owned factory), Fabiano Amadi (trained by Francesco Barbini), Adriano dalla Valentina (trained in several furnaces of Murano before opening his own at the age of twenty four) or Afro Celotto (trained by Lino Tagliapietra).
• Another famous technique of glasswork is the production “a lume”. Three outstanding masters Lucio Bubacco, Cesare Toffolo and Vittorio Costantini have developed their elaborate way to approach a very different art of glass making. That in its most restricted version can be performed in a small studio. On a DVD mentioned below they talk about their experience and show some of their work.
• I shall publish a few interviews in spring 2019 to give an outright and genuine account of contemporary opinion leaders.

Sightseeing in Murano

During the day Murano looks like a very crowded and noisy place. Explore the churches with their precious interior (Santa Maria degli Angeli and San Pietro Martire). The Basilica Santa Maria e San Donato is richly decorated with the golden mosaic covering the apsis and representing the glorification of the Madonna. It is only slightly younger than the one in Classis (Ravenna). The mosaics of the pavement date from the 12th century and are well preserved. You may also get a feeling for the oeuvre by Ermanno Nason when looking at the glass crucifix near the transept. On your way to this impressive Byzantine dome you should visit the Glass Museum drawing the history and origin of the evolution of glass making down to modern glass design, located in the ”Palazzo Giustinian”. While wandering around enjoy the view of the canal or from various locations into the lagoon. Modern art galleries found their way to the streets showcasing fancy pieces of glass art from famous designers. One example is the Berengo Studio situated on the “Fondamenta dei Vetrai”. The evenings in Murano become very silent when all tourists have left and returned to the main island. This peaceful retrenchment is the most rewarding piece for residents and the connoisseurs.

Lido

The Lido — a sand bank separating Venice from the Adriatic sea — is worth an excursion to stroll the sandy beaches or the Gran Viale or just enjoy the view over the lagoon. Needless to say that the yearly film festival attracts the stars of this industry. Spend time to cross the island to Alberoni with its golf course passing by Malamocco — you will encounter the remains of the oldest village in the lagoon. Nearby you can dine at the Agriturismo “Salvatore”, Le Garzette +39 041 731078 (reachable by bus or taxi). In case you choose to stay, there are rooms available. Time allowing, you can cross over to the narrow but elongated isle of Pellestrina and eventually land at the Po River Delta in Chioggia, still a major fishing port with its traditional fish market. The historical centre displays its canals, a romantic ambiance of narrow streets, old churches with their paintings and the Museum of Adriatic Zoology.

Walking experience in Venice

We mostly enjoy embarking for Venice before lunch, visit museums or wander around only to come back in the afternoon to relax or stay on for dinner. It really very much depends on the time of the year when we visit.

• Dorsoduro is an area one likes to remember for the “Gallerie de’ll Accademia” or the “Guggenheim” museum. The exterior of the Peggy Guggenheim museum is most compelling when viewed from the water front with the heads of lions pointing towards the canal — you may immediatly recognize that it must have been an unfinished palazzo with the missing top floor (a model is exposed at the Correr museum). The streets leading to the “Punta della Dogana” (completetly restored and presenting contemporary art of the Pinault Collection) have become very popular with young people for their shops and bars. From there you can enjoy the view towards the island “San Giorgio” with its centre for rare exhibitions — the “Fondazione Cini” or to the “Giudecca” with the famous churches of the “Redentore” (Palladio) or Sant’ Eufemia (9th and 11th century). On the western end of the island the imposing late 19th century “Molino Stucky” building (previously a flour mill and even pasta factory) has been turned into a hotel. During the summer season Arrigo Cipriani offers his guests his favours at the “Harry’s Dolci” restaurant hosting a wonderful view of the fire-works and boat parades during the festivities of the “Redentore” on the third Sunday in July, commemorating the end of the devastating plague of 1577. Finishing your tour you can either take the boat to “San Marco” square or you walk back to the wooden “Accademia” bridge along the “Zaterre” riva passing by the famous bar “Ai Schiavi” at Rio de San Trovaso.
• Starting from here you have several choices. One of the highlights is the 14th century church “Santa Maria dei Carmini” with its plain front, remarkable Byzantine marble reliefs on the left side portico and the astoundingly decorated interior.
• Before crossing Campo San Barnaba enter Calle Lunga San Barnaba and stop by “Dal Nonno Colussi” a traditional and excellent pasticceria — his panettone and the krapfen filled with crema pasticcera are outstanding. Return to the Campo pass by the boat of the “fruttivendolo” adjacent to the “Ponte dei Pugni” and reach the Campo Santa Margherita — a lively area, eventually leading your way to Sestiere San Polo and the “Scuola Grande di San Rocco” (Tintoretto and Titian) and its 14th century gothic brick construction of the Franciscan “Basilica Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari” with its unforgettable artistic beauties — the wooden statue of St John by Donatello, the high altar piece of the “Assumption” by Titian, the choir stalls by Cozzi or the monumental memorials for Canova and Titian.
• Alternatively, you may choose to continue your journey to the other highlight of this less busy area of Dorsoduro, the museum “Ca’Rezzonico”, baroque architecture facing the Canale Grande, hosting 18th century paintings and frescoes and the marble staircases. Crossing the Canale Grande from “Ca’Rezzonico” with the “Traghetto” you will disembark in front of the “Palazzo Grassi” and be able to enjoy a tour of the current exhibitions. This 18th century building was completely restored during the Fiat Group ownership and again when Francois Pinault took it over in 2006, now exhibiting his art collections. Behind the palace is the luxurious hotel “Palazzina Grassi” with its mirror lined rooms designed by Philippe Starck.
• Passing by the small church of “San Samuele” the narrow street opens up to art galleries and you can stop at the studio of textile designer Chiarastella Cattana to admire her art of composing tissues for table cloth, coverlets and other hand-made accessories, all woven in Alto Adige. The store opposite her shop seduces by the rare opportunity to purchase perfumes, candles and much more from the Florentine “Officina Profumo — Farmaceutica di S. Maria Novella” — casa fondata nel 1620.

• Campo San Stefano could be your next destination — very central either leading to “Ponte Rialto” or via the famous shopping street Calle Larga XXII Marzo towards San Marco — one remarkable shop that should attract your attention is the “Legatoria Piazzesi”. This traditional paper shop operates since the 1850s and is located opposite the “Chiesa Santa Maria del Giglio”. You can still watch the artisans binding books, selling traditional Venetian designs of their hand printed paper and various types of notebooks, paperboxes or pen holders. When we went there first in the 1980s the lady owner proudly revealed that she was a descendant of the Austrian engineer Josef Ressel, who designed the first screw propeller.
• Do not hesitate to visit Cristina Linassi’s Atelier for exclusive homelinen and lingerie in the busy Calle delle Ostreghe. She has moved here from her original location on Campo San Lio and displays her ample product lines with much grace and taste.
• And then continue your way to the museum in “Palazzo Correr” at the southern entrance to Campo San Marco. The collection displayed is only part of the treasures given to the city by Teodoro Correr in 1830 and kept growing. Enjoy a stupendous view on to the “San Marco” square and imagine to transgress history through the windows of this prominent place.
• A little detour is recommended to pay a visit to the “Teatro la Fenice”, the famous Opera House that also performs the Venetian New Year’s concert. It had a close association with Giuseppe Verdi. Its history also encompasses several reconstructions after having been destroyed by fire, the latest in 2003. It was rebuilt in 19th century style — although initial music critics were mixed the house is appealing to visitors for its history and traditional flair.

• We return to Campo San Stefano — a very spacious rectangular square with its famous “Chiesa Santo Stefano”, coffee shops serving snacks and ice cream on the sunny terraces surrounding the statue of “Nicola Tommaseo”. The “Palazzo Pisani” hosts the academy of music overlooking the Canale Grande. Next to the wooden bridge of the “Accademia” the 16th century “Palazzo Cavalli-Franchetti” engages with cultural events and participates during the Biennale with exhibitions. I would recommend passing by “Cavalier” — Cornici e Specchiere d’epoca — a tiny antique shop worthwhile a visit, especially for its typical Venetian genre paintings by Enrico del Frate, detto Il Frattini. The entrance will be remembered as the background to his painting “La Bottega de l’Indorador”. It is situated at the right-hand corner of the “Chiesa San Vidal” (www.cavaliervenice.com).
• A few steps down from the entrance of the “Convent of San Stefano” and you will have reached Campo Sant’ Anzolo surrounded by the pallazzi of famous Venetian families displaying a remarkable architecture. You could reach out to Campo San Beneto via Calle de la Mandola and visit the “Palazzo Fortuny”. This Gothic Palazzo still epitomizes the place where Mariano Fortuny had his atelier. Photography, paintings, garment, tapestry or his famous lamps are all testament to his art and inspiration. Enjoy the quiet and narrow streets.
• In Calle de la Mandola, a busy street that connects Campo Sant’ Anzolo and Campo Manin I always admire the florist, displaying a marvel each season. Nearby is the optician Ottica Carraro who not only has a large selection of premium eyeglasses but also runs his own line of frames. Service is very professional and client orientated. At the bottom of the bridge that takes you to the Campo Manin there is an elegant Antique store selling books and prints — Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’ Acqua.
• Behind the statue of Daniele Manin, the leader of the Risorgimento who profoundly disliked Austria, rises the imposing structure of Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia — a building that Nervi and Scattolin designed as a modern headquater of the bank in the 1970s. Using steel and bronze instead of brick, thereby creating a distinct piece of architecture that breaks with a traditional image of the “Campo Veneziano”. The interior is characterized by an helical stair case combining steel, wood and reinforced concrete.
• The square also leads to the magnificent “Scala Contarini del Bovolo”, late 15th century this famous stair case surges like a multi arched tower to the top of the palazzo.
• Leading to Campo San Luca take the Calle Minelli from the right-hand corner of the Nervi Scattolini building and find the Locust Barena Store for quality brands from Felisi or Barena.
• Campo San Luca opens up to Calle dei Fabbri where Nicola Agostini entertains the grocery “CIBO venezia” (www.cibovenzia.it) offering traditional salumi, prosciutti, formaggi, olio e vini and most tempting their selection of fine tartufo bianco and caviale. Please notice the Muranese ceiling light from NasonMoretti.
• Continue towards Rialto passing by Teatro Carlo Goldoni.

• At the Campo San Bartolomeo you cross the Rialto Bridge towards the fruit and vegetable market and you finally arrive at the famous fish market with its busy hours until lunch time. You may have had cichetti at “Do Mori” or finally had a welcome break and dine at the “Antico Dolo” or the “Do Spade”.
• The Traghetto at the fish market will take you to “Ca’ d’Oro” and the Strada Nova, the large street leading to the train station which was initiated as an urban development in the 19th century.
• The “Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro” is the museum of the 15th century. Take a drink at the “Pasticeria Pitteri” or sit down at the “Bacaro Ca‘ d’Oro — Alla Vedova”.

• On your way to the “Chiesa Madonna dell’Orto” you will pass by many palazzi and cross campi and ponti — in this zone you will enjoy quiet beauty.
• Strada Nova will bring you to Campo Santa Fosca, then to Campo San Marziale. Take note of the “Ponte Santa Fosca” that used to be called “Ponte della Guerra”. As with the “Ponte dei Pugni” just before entering “Campo Margherita” in Dorsoduro it was used for fist fights.
• Via Fondamenta Grimani you will reach Fondamenta della Misericordia.
• Continue to Fondamenta dei Mori with its statues representing the many myths associated with three merchants — the brothers Mastelli and their palazzo — playing their part in the early fame of the Venetian trade history.
• The church “Madonna dell’Orto” is located on a quiet square remembering the origin of its name giving Madonna, Mary. It used to be a remote green area. An artistically structured Gothic exterior the church is home to evocative Tintoretto paintings and his and his family grave.
• Cannaregio is also the Sestiere of the Ghetto and the “Museo Ebraico”, deserving a separate visit.

• Instead of crossing Rialto bridge at Campo San Bartolomeo you may choose to walk direction Fondamente Nove and take the Vaporetto to the Cemetery “San Michele”. This was the first church in Renaissance style built by Mauro Coducci in the lagoon. To him are also attributed the churches of “San Zaccaria” and “Santa Maria Formosa”.
• The next boat stop will be “Murano Colonna”. The entry to our beloved island. In case you like to take the boat to the isles of Sant’ Erasmo, Burano or Torcello you should embark at the station “Murano Faro”.

• If your starting point was Campo Bartolomeo you will pass by Fondaco dei Tedeschi — a Warehouse of the 16th century, then the building for the Poste Veneziane, since 2008 Benetton and now a modern department store. The newly adapted interior and courtyard have provoked protests from the part of campaigns for the preservation of Italy’s historical heritage.
• The church “San Giovanni Grisostomo” is on your way and with a little detour “Santa Maria dei Miracoli” with its legendary marble facade as a “trompe l’oeil” and its stunning interior — a fascinating construction of the Renaissance.
• The very narrow Calle del Fumo leads you to the Fondamente Nove — don’t miss to have a look at the hidden but extraordinary printing atelier of Gianni Basso (by appoinment +39 041 5234681) who recently also has opened his museum. Very interesting documentation of the art of printing.

• “Fondamente Nove” offers a relaxing walk along the “Riva” towards the “Ospedale Civile”. Enjoy the far-reaching view out on the lagoon. Turn to Fondamenta dei Mendicati on your right hand side and you will pass by an old style Rowing Club (Canottieri).
• The “Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo” is a spacious and animated square with the famous Renaissance equestrian statue of the Condottiere “Bartolomeo Colleoni” (by Andrea Verrocchio) in its centre. The square is surrounded by the Façade of the Ospedale (Mauro Coducci and son) and the Gothic church of “Santi Giovanni e Paolo”, the principal Dominican church “Zanipoli” as the Venetians call it. The interior is famous for its innumerable fantastic paintings and the tombs of famous doges. Not to forget a beautiful Byzantine “Madonna della Pace”.
• In case you are interested visiting an exquisite Venetian Antique Shop and meeting a famous restorer of furniture, Germano Lachin, you deviate to Calle Giacinto Gallina, Cannaregio 5401/D (+39 041 5234348). The antiques store at the end of the street on your left carries fantastic Venetian objects and lighting. Germano’s wife Renata manages the sale.
• Come back to the “Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo”. The atmosphere of the surroundings is very inviting for a break — don’t miss to stop at the traditional bar at the corner towards “Campo Santa Maria Formosa” named “Rosa Salva” for drinks and tramezzini or dolci. The wood and marble interior is well kept.
• Arriving at the Campo Santa Maria Formosa I would recommend having a brief visit of the Palazzo “Querini Stampalia” with its notable ground floor and courtyard by Scarpa.
• Becoming hungry? Move on to the tiny restaurant “Alle Testiere” in Calle del Mondo Novo. Dishes are excellent and beyond traditional kitchen — you should take with you their recipe booklet (Bruno/ the chef and Luca/ service and wines). By the way, their wine list deserves a serious look.
• A few steps away and just in case you wanted to take home with you some of the Italian food specialities offered in excellent quality visit “Prosciutto e Parmiggiano” (www.prosciuttoeparmigiano.it). This small food store is a member of the Slow Food Association and is run by its current owners for over thirty years. Service and quality are very refined. They will also vacuum pack your selection.

• This was my little story of places we like most. Upon your return to the lagoon and I’m sure you will, you can explore and discover new sensations and impressions. Of course there is much more to see and more to enjoy. A visit to the Ghetto for example. Maybe a boat tour on the Canale Grande. Take your time visiting the Biennale in the Giardini and the “Museo Storico Navale” near the Arsenale on the Riva Biasio, Castello.
• Enjoy a relaxed meal at the restaurant “Corte Sconta” or “Al Covo” to beef up your curiosity instincts.
• Another worthwhile tour is a combination of the visit to the Piazza San Marco, the Basilica or the Palace. Do not get lost though in the crowded shopping street leading to Rialto, the “Merceria” starting behind the clocktower which may have been designed by Codussi, just admire its astronomical clock above the arch.
• Don’t miss to get information on the Biennale — be it art, architecture or cinema — links are shown below.
• Furthermore, look up the links below to find out where to celebrate the festivities together with the Venetians or plan your outdoor activities. Not only the Regata Storica is outstanding. It takes place every first Sunday in September. This is a most colourful and embarking event into the showing of a boat parade with its historical costumes, outfits and formidable boat constructions so specific to what we now understand Serenissima stood for. The different teams representing the various types of boats and historical constructions also demonstrate their elegant or competitive rowing skills. In July you can follow the regatta of the talents of the young generation, the female and the oared gondola. All touring the isles of Murano. Skills and performance are also demonstrated during the Vogalonga being held in May or in June crossing the canals of the surrounding islands. There are lots of rowing clubs participating. Check out further competitive events.

Eating and Drinking in Venice

Over the years we had various experiences sometimes not to the best and now that Fiaschetteria Toscana is missing we even find it harder to assemble a selection of special places. For our taste we prefer to recommend:

Restaurants in Venice — Always remember to book a table

• “Osteria Alle Testiere” +39 041 5227220 — a tiny spot (see above), excellent cuisine, great selection of wines and our favourite recommendation (Bruno / chef, Luca / service and wines) — on display for purchase their collection of recipes in “Venice, Food and Wine”.
• Traditional but still endorsed and special “Harry’s Bar” +39 041 5285777 — during the summer season you may cross the Canale to the island La Giudecca and visit Cipriani’s place “Harry’s Dolci” +39 041 5224844. The terrace is overlooking the Baccino with the Palace — nice dining, wonderful atmosphere and in July watching the festive evening fireworks of the “Festa del Redentore”.
• “Trattoria Corte Sconta” +39 041 5227024 next to Arsenale and not too distant from the Giardini — good ratings.
• “Al Covo” +39 041 5223812 also easily reachable from Arsenale, although closer to Piazza San Marco, recommended for its perfect quality by “Alle Testiere”.
• While visiting the Biennale in the Giardini you may just like to sit down at the restaurant by the entrance overlooking the Baccino, much nicer than the coffee bars around.
• So far we did not visit the restaurant recommended to us by Anna Burghardt, the food critic of the Austrian weekly “Schaufenster” published by “Die Presse”: “Local” +39 041 2411128 in Salizzida dei Greci also in Castello.
• “Alla Frasca” +39 041 2412585 close to Fondamente Nove, behind the church of the Gesuiti has made a move from Bacaro to restaurant.

Bacari and more

• Bacari is legend or subject to change — You may enjoy the traditional quality of “Do Mori” near the Rialto bridge and fish market.
• “Antico Dolo” or the “Do Spade” are in the same area of San Polo as the “Do Mori”.
• From the fish market take the Traghetto to cross the Canal Grande to Strada Nuova. Next to the Ca’ d’Oro Museum is the Pasticceria “Pitteri” and very nearby the “Osteria Ca’ d’Oro”.
• “Cantine del Vino gia Schiavi” — on your way between Gallerie Accademia and Zaterre is a must.
• “Codroma” Dorsoduro, Campo S. Margherita next to the Chiesa Santa Maria dei Carmini and the Ponte del Soccorso.
• “Al Volto” between Campo Manin und Gran Canale towards Rialto still charming.
• Hidden behind the Ghetto in Fondamenta delle Cappucine is the “Al Bacco” with multiple specialties you will enjoy.
• The Piazza San Marco offers at least two remarkable locations to visit under the arcades of the Procuratie the Caffe “Florian” and on the opposite side the Caffe “Quadri”.

Appendix

Almost all points of interest, museums or restaurants have websites, here are a few examples and some literature:

Guidebooks

Venezia Scomparsa, Alvise Zorzi (died 2016), first published in 1972 by Electa Editrice, comprehensive account of places and historical buildings, a profound narrative and carefully selected illustrations.

Venice and its Lagoon — Historical Artistic Guide, Giulio Lorenzetti (died 1951), first published in Italian in 1926, translated into English in 1961 with subsequent new editions. My version was printed in 1985 by Edizioni Lint Trieste. The guide comprises 12 itineraries. Each chapter is furnished with foldable maps and thorough descriptions of places, monuments and historical highlights.

Venice for Pleasure, J.G. Links (died 1997), first published in 1966 by The Bodley Head, available in its 7th edition, nicely pictured and easy instructive read.

Corto Sconto, G. Fuga — L. Vianello, first published in 1997, new editions by Rizzoli Lizard, seven itineraries describing fantastic locations, illustrations and recommendations of places to discover and lots of useful suggestions.

Guida alla Citta di Venezia, Ugo Pizzarello — Ester Capitano, published 1986 by L’Altra Riva, detailed documentation and graphical representations in four volumes (1-Dorsoduro — Giudecca, 2- Sta Croce — San Polo, 3- Potenza marittima: Canarreggio — Castello, 4- San Marco) and hundreds of fascinating pages with drawings, ample descriptions and introductions to sites and buildings.

Elements of Venice, Giulia Foscari 2014, published on the occasion of the 14th Venice Architectural Biennale, curated by Rem Koolhaas, Lars Müller Publishers. This guide gives an introduction to the architectural structure that has shaped the view of Venice. The technical elements are illustrated by photos, graphics, maps, statistics and comments.

Venedig — Die Biographie, Peter Ackroyd, aus dem Englischen und mit Marginalien versehen Michael Müller, 3. Auflage Random House GmbH München 2012, detailed and encompassing account of a fascinating 1600 years of history from the origins to the present days.

A History of Venice, John Julius Norwich, Vintage Books ed 1989, this history of the Republic of Venice is legend and with regard to style und narrative a must for all passioned fans of this city.

Glass blowing — Cultural Centre

Vetro e Vetrai di Murano, Luigi Zecchin, published by Arsenale Editrice 1990, in 3 volumes, furnishes a complete documentation of history, raw materials, glass products, families, bibliography — summaries in English.

Mille Anni di Vetro a Venezia, a cura di Rosa Barovier Mentasti, Attila Dorigato, Astone Gasparetto, Tullio Toninato, published by Albrizzi Editore di Marsilio Editori 1982, gives a rich technical and historical account, ample photographical documentation and in addition a catalogue of objects.

miniature di vetro — murrine 1838 — 1924, a cura di Gianni Moretti e Giovanni Sarpellon, published by Arsenale Editrice 1990, not withstanding that this book documents a profound research of the subject and comprises detailed presentations and the historical background of this technically complex art the curators stipulate their preference to limit the account of their work and the contributions to four famous families, namely Franchini, Moretti, Barovier and Bussolin.

Murano — Behind the Glass, Henry Thoreau, published by Daminani 2008, photography at its best, gives a detailed view of the working environment, the locations, the interiors, the objects produced and the portraits of the eleven actors or the entrepreneurs.

Murano — L’insostenibile Leggerezza del Vetro, DVD by InMurano 2016, six of the most skilled Murano glass-masters give an account of their experience, the art of glass making and their perception of the future. Wonderful documentary of the career and work of six Muranese maestri divided between the two disciplines covering the work “al forno” and the work “a lume”. Also registered are their comments on eminent topics.

Murano-Glas im 20. Jahrhundert — Vom Kunsthandwerk zum Design
20th century Murano Glass — From craft to design, Marc Heidemanns, Arnoldsche Art Publishers 1996. Full colour illustrations, technical and artistic descriptions give information on the production process and decoration procedures.

I Vetri Venini, Archivi di Arti Decorarative, Franco Deboni, first published by Umberto Allemandi & C. 1996. Available in English. This book is an illuminating example representing the evolution of modern glass technics and design that took place after WWI. The author has also published several other volumes about the way glass production was evolving in this period. Other famous accounts were given for example by Marino Barovier — Il Vetro a Venezia dal Moderno al Contemporaneo, Motta 1996 or Leslie A. Pina — Fratelli Toso — Italian Glass 1854–1980, Schiffer Publishing 2004 — and of course many more.

Il vetro di Murano, Gianfranco Toso, first published in 2000, reprint 2012 by Arsenale Editrice. The English version was reprinted in 2007 — Murano — A history of glass. Published in the pocket format (“i piccoli”) a very useful guide through the history, styles and design of glass manufacture. The selection of the photos documents a variety of material or form and the elegance of the product, symbols of savoir-faire.

Fondazione Giorgio Cini, the non for profit cultural centre based on the Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, opposite the Piazza San Marco. It is home to a vast exhibition centre, libraries located in the former dormitory of the Benedictine monastery, called Nuova Manica Lunga, recently converted by the architect Michele de Lucchi and for glass fans the famous Stanze del Vetro (www.cini.it and lestanzedelvetro.org).

For further reading be referred to numerous catalogues published in association with the Stanze del Vetro — mentioning:

1/The Glass of the Architects. Vienna 1900–1937 in cooperation with the MAK (an exhibition in 2016 curated by Rainald Franz, MAK Glass and Ceramics Collection, Vienna)

2/The M.V.M Cappellin Glassworks and the Young Carlo Scarpa 1925–1931 (an exhibition curated by Marino Barovier 2018)

3/Napoleone Martinuzzi. Venini 1925–1931 (Mostra e Catalogo a cura di Marino Barovier 2013)

Names of outstanding classic maestri

Alfredo Barbini (1912–2007)
Archimede Seguso (1909–1999)
Barovier Napoleone (1881–1957)
Giovanni Ferro “Nane Catari” (1911–1998)
Biasutto Arturo “ Boboli”
Seguso Livio (1930–)
Seguso Giovanni “ Nane Patare” (1853–1931)
Tosi Carlo “ Caramea” (1929–)
Ferro Vittorio (1932–2012)
Ermanno Nason (1928–)
Aldo Nason (1920–2017)
Compagno Ennio “Orfeo” (1934-)
Tosi Berto “ Mamaracio”
Tosi Mario “Mario Grasso” (1924–2004)
Toso Ferdinando “ Fei” (1921–)
Lino Tagliapietra (1934–)
Pavanello Malvino
Pustetto Plinio

Useful Links and Tips

Bacari
www.lucianopignataro.it/a/bacari-venezia-migliori/101149/

Cook Books
Venice, Food and Wine, writer M.E. Chojnacka, chef Bruno Gavagnin, sommelier Luca di Vita, lineadacqua 2009

Taste of Venice, Traditional Venetian Cooking, Jeanette Nance Nordio, Illustrated by Sally Spector, Webb & Bower (Publishers) Limited 1988

Venice & Food, written and illustrated by Sally Spector, Arsenale Editrice 1998

Il mio Harry’s Bar. Le ricette e la leggenda, Arrigo Cipriani, Sperling & Kupfer Editori 1991

Aus Italiens Küchen, Originalrezepte der verschiedenen Regionen Italiens. Hrsg Marianne Kaltenbach und Virginia Cerabolini, Hallwag, 8. Auflage 1990

Villa Lina, Murano- Reviews
www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g681249-d1418977-Reviews-Villa_Lina-Murano_Veneto.html

Fabrics and Wallcoverings
www.rubelli.com/en/rubelli-venezia/
www.fortuny.com/venice/
www.luigi-bevilacqua.com/en/

Language school
www.ladantevenezia.it/en/

For further exploration of the islands
www.venezia.travel
www.veneziatoday.it/eventi/
www.events.veneziaunica.it
www.theveniceinsider.com/regata-storica
www.vogalonga.com
www.labiennale.org/en/cinema
www.labiennale.org/en/architecture
www.labiennale.org/en/art
www.labiennale.org/en/architecture
www.promovetro.com